Torres del Paine National Park is bordered by the Southern Patagonian Ice Field, one of the largest glaciated areas in the world outside of Antarctica. Sister park to Yosemite in California, Torres del Paine’s busy trail system, pricey refugios and the 200,000 visitors it hosts per year, may not be paradise for those looking for something remote. That said, it’s so popular for a reason. The Torres and Cuernos occupy postcards and book covers all over the world and they are a symbol for Chile.

“Paine,” by the way, means blue, and you’ll see blues that will blow your mind.

Plus, it is possible to get away from the crowds, especially if you stay

long enough, for example, to do the back end of the circuit, and not just the standard W trek. To venture even further away from the masses, visit Laguna Azul or Pingo. Even if you don’t stray from the well-trod parts of the Park, make sure you check out the icebergs on Lago Grey, and watch the National Geographic puma film at the Administration Visitor Center.

Human settlement traces back to 12,000 years ago. Estancias (ranches) were started by German and British colonists in the 1890s. More recently, truckloads of barbed wire fencing have gradually been removed from the Park as the land is converted from estancia back to its natural state.

UNESCO BIOSPHERE RESERVE: 1978

TOTAL AREA: 242,242 hectares

PAINE GRANDE: 3,050 meters

LOS CUERNOS: 2,200m to 2,600m

FOUL WEATHER GEAR: Essential

What’s the weather going to be like? That’s the forbidden question. But we put this one in just for fun! ...No, really, what’s the weather going to be like? I need to know what to pack! Plan for everything, but mostly cold.The weather changes constantly.

How long does the trekking season last? Roughly from October to April, but it’s lasting longer every year.The truth is that it’s beautiful here all the time, and the Park is great in winter.

How far is it to the Park from Natales? From Natales, by bus, it’s about 2 to 2.5 hours.

What time do the buses leave in the morning? Most buses pick up and leave between 7 and 8 a.m.

When’s the latest I can start my trek?

In high season (Dec.-Mar.), there is an afternoon bus to the Park around 2.30 p.m., más o menos.

Can the buses to the Park pick me up from my hostel? Some do. It depends on if your hostel is friendly with the bus company.

What’s the Park entrance fee?

15.000 CLP (about 30 greenbacks USD).

How much does camping cost in the Park? Camping costs up to 4.000 pesos per person, not per tent, per day, at the privately run sites.The CONAF sites are free. In the off-season (about April-August), closed campsites are free.

Which campsites are always free? Los Guardes, Italiano, Británico, Japones, Las Torres, Paso, Pingo, and Las Carretas.

How much money should I carry into the Park with me? 15.000 entrance + 11.000 catamaran + paid camping nights and mini shuttle equals roughly

45.000 CLP, plus some extra in case you want to buy a beer or two in one of refugios.

Do I get a map when I enter the Park? Yes.You can also buy a nicer wall map in town.

Are the times on the trail maps accurate? The times are pretty accurate on the CONAF map, depending on your physical condition. Some of the books seem to be a little off though.

What time is sunrise and sunset?

It changes, of course, but you can find out the specifics on the back of the map they give you when you enter the Park. During summer, from roughly December to March, you have about 18 hours of daylight.

If the weather is nice on the first day, should I go see the Towers first?

Any experienced climber, trekker or hiker will tell you to make a plan and stick to it, but as long as your logistics all work out there is nothing wrong in a little improv.

Is it better to trek the Park clockwise or counterclockwise?

You’ll find that outdated guide books tell you to go clockwise, but most trekkers find that counterclockwise flows through the ‘W’ better and makes for a more scenic day over the John Gardner Pass.

How much does the catamaran between Pehoe and Pudeto cost? It’s 11.000 pesos per person one way. 18.000 round trip. It shuts down during winter.

Can I rent a tent, sleeping bag and mattress at the refugios?

Yes, but you can’t take them with you as you trek. Keep in mind that many refugios stay closed during

the winter off-season.

Do I need sunscreen in the Park? YES! The hole in the ozone hovers right over us during spring and summer. It can and will cause problems after a multi-day trek in the park.The UV rays come through the clouds too, so don’t skimp on the sun protection.

Can you drink the water in the Park? You bet! Best water in the world. Just make sure it’s fresh run off, not lake water or anything downstream from a camp or refugio.

Is food sold in the Park? You can buy hot meals in the refugios as well as some camping food staples.

Do I need to tie up my food in the Park?

Mice have been a problem in the Park recently, so it is a good idea to tie up your food.

Should I worry about bugs in the Park? Bug repellent is definitely a good idea, especially on the back of the Circuit or when the weather warms up and the wind chills out.

I’m doing the circuit. Is there anything I should know before I go?

Do the circuit counterclockwise. It’s a good idea to start with the W.This will lighten your food load when you head over the pass.After Campamento Perros, make sure you go LEFT, following the PINK ribbons. Do not cross the river. (The right- side trail with orange paint is old, unkempt and knee-deep muddy for a couple of hours.)

How do I contact the Park’s Search and Rescue if something happens? There’s no official Search and Rescue, but any of the CONAF ranger stations can help you.